--> --> ABSTRACT: New Wave Parameters Due To Shoaling, by W. F. Tanner; #90941 (1997).
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ABSTRACT: New Previous HitWaveNext Hit Parameters Due To Shoaling


Deep-sea Previous HitwaveNext Hit height, length and period each may have a Gaussian distribution. However, deep-sea Previous HitwaveNext Hit height and length can't be used in shoaling depths, where sand is moved on the bed, and there is no simple equation which gives modified parameters at each point during shoaling: they must be calculated step-by-step over a bathymetry of some kind.

Shoaling over real-world profiles yields complicated distributions of these parameters, due to bottom irregularities. Shoaling on most profile equations also makes complicated distributions, even without irregularities, showing a bad match with hypothetical dynamic-equilibrium profiles.

One result is that nearshore Previous HitwaveNext Hit parameters may have polymodal distributions, commonly with two-to-six Gaussian components. Any one component of one parameter may be truncated at either end, hence even the Previous HitwaveNext Hit period may not be constant from deep water to the beach.

The initial Previous HitwaveNext Hit period, the deep-water Previous HitwaveNext Hit height, and the modal inshore Previous HitwaveNext Hit length can be related in a simple equation for algebraic profiles but not for most examples of natural bathymetry. Therefore one uses iteration (computer simulation) to track deep-sea waves across real-world bathymetry, to the beach. This must be done with many deep-water Previous HitwaveNext Hit periods & Previous HitwaveNext Hit heights, to produce a realistic variety of results at the outer edge of the surf zone. The result provides for a more accurate assessment of Previous HitwaveNext Hit energy expenditure along the Previous HitwaveTop ray, and hence of the energy available in the breakers.

This is particularly important for sediment transport studies.

AAPG Search and Discovery Article #90941©1997 GCAGS 47th Annual Meeting, New Orleans, Louisiana